Since I am on-call at work for two-thirds of my life, only one of every three weekends can be a backpacking weekend where I am "off the grid". 9-10 August 2014 was supposed to be my hiking weekend, but we had a big Quarterly software release with "all hands on deck". Wouldn't you know it. But I managed to sneak in a day hike on Sunday.
I parked at Timberline Lodge and hiked down to Highway 35 (5 miles) on the Pacific Crest Trail. I saw 4 Mexico-to-Canada thru-hikers and talked to them briefly. The trail was steep at first and then much more gradual than I expected. I kept seeing these metal blue diamonds nailed up high in the trees, so naturally I thought "what in blue blazes ???". I realized they were marking the route taken in the winter by cross-country skiers, snowshoers, etc.
I stopped and had a snack at a picnic table next to Barlow Road. This was a geographical family reunion of sorts, since my Great Great Grandmother (Marianne Hunsaker D'Arcy) passed by here in a covered wagon in 1846. Here is an excerpt from her journal:
"As soon as Father and Mother, with their family, could safely leave the Company, East of the Cascade Mountains, they pushed on alone over the then new Barlow Road which passed over the South shoulder of Mt. Hood. Ours was the first wagon to come directly over it from across the plains. How well I remember what was to us, the children, the momentous task of getting the wagon down Laurel Hill. Ropes were tied to the wagon, and the other ends were snubbed around trees. Then Father, with the help of Mother and brother Horton, would carefully lower the wagon to where the horses could safely draw it again. It is still possible to walk up the old Barlow Road and see many of the trees marked by deep grooves made by the pioneers ropes."
On the hike back up, the trail turns sandy near timberline. I got lots of sand in my shoes since I was not wearing my gaiters. There is a neat stretch where you walk a narrow ridge, with the White River to the east of you and the Salmon River to the west of you. When I forded the Salmon "River" (which is no more than a trickle this high up), I drank my fill of untreated water, since I was near the end of my hike.
Saturday, August 16, 2014
Monday, July 21, 2014
Lolo Pass to Timberline Lodge on the PCT (17 miles)
I parked at Lolo Pass at 4pm on Friday. Hiked until 8pm and called it a day next to the Sandy River. It looked pretty high and scary, so I decided to camp and check it out early in the morning.
On Saturday morning, as I stood next to the river, I enjoyed the antics of a couple of Harlequin Ducks. I think they were both hens. It was sunrise and all I could see were the white marks on their heads. They would stand on a rock, bob up and down, stare at me, then fly upstream and surf down the river before hopping out on the rock again. As I watched them cruise down the river, I decided to serenade them with a couple of verses of "Surfing USA". They flew away. I've never cared much for music critics, so I finished the song without them.
Crossing the river was challenging. It is swift and silty, so you can't see the bottom to tell how deep it is. I slowly worked my way out, feeling ahead of me with my trekking poles. The water was about 2.5 feet deep. That does not sound like much, but as a solo hiker, it was pretty freaky.
The uphill hike was uneventful. I took my time and hiked slowly since I did not plan on meeting my wife at the lodge until 4pm. After I got out of the river canyon, I had cell service, so I called my wife and told her that 1pm would be better. I had 286 unread emails on my work phone. Yikes! Glad I'm not on-call this week.
I passed many day hikers; especially after I crossed the Zigzag River. I was wearing long black pants, longsleeve black shirt (with my hood up) and black gloves. As you might guess, I am not a sun worshiper. I stay pretty cool since it is all Nike Dri-Fit. But a guy passed me and said "Wow, I'm hot just looking at you". I said "Thank you!" and continued on my way without turning around to see the look on his face.
I made it to the Lodge around Noon. What a Zoo! The parking lot was completely full. After my wife got there, we ate at the Lodge and then looked around. I talked to a PCT thru-hiker for a bit and gave him the information about the Sandy River crossing. He must be pulling some huge miles if he is this far ahead of the pack!
With the exception of two miles around Wahtum Lake, I have now done the PCT from Cascade Locks all the way south to Timberline Lodge.
On Saturday morning, as I stood next to the river, I enjoyed the antics of a couple of Harlequin Ducks. I think they were both hens. It was sunrise and all I could see were the white marks on their heads. They would stand on a rock, bob up and down, stare at me, then fly upstream and surf down the river before hopping out on the rock again. As I watched them cruise down the river, I decided to serenade them with a couple of verses of "Surfing USA". They flew away. I've never cared much for music critics, so I finished the song without them.
Crossing the river was challenging. It is swift and silty, so you can't see the bottom to tell how deep it is. I slowly worked my way out, feeling ahead of me with my trekking poles. The water was about 2.5 feet deep. That does not sound like much, but as a solo hiker, it was pretty freaky.
The uphill hike was uneventful. I took my time and hiked slowly since I did not plan on meeting my wife at the lodge until 4pm. After I got out of the river canyon, I had cell service, so I called my wife and told her that 1pm would be better. I had 286 unread emails on my work phone. Yikes! Glad I'm not on-call this week.
I passed many day hikers; especially after I crossed the Zigzag River. I was wearing long black pants, longsleeve black shirt (with my hood up) and black gloves. As you might guess, I am not a sun worshiper. I stay pretty cool since it is all Nike Dri-Fit. But a guy passed me and said "Wow, I'm hot just looking at you". I said "Thank you!" and continued on my way without turning around to see the look on his face.
I made it to the Lodge around Noon. What a Zoo! The parking lot was completely full. After my wife got there, we ate at the Lodge and then looked around. I talked to a PCT thru-hiker for a bit and gave him the information about the Sandy River crossing. He must be pulling some huge miles if he is this far ahead of the pack!
With the exception of two miles around Wahtum Lake, I have now done the PCT from Cascade Locks all the way south to Timberline Lodge.
West Side of Mt. Hood
Ski Bowl Adventure Park (east and west)
Mt. Jefferson
Southwest side of Mt. Hood
Sandy River. I crossed just upstream of the logs.
There are rock cairns on both sides of the river marking the crossing point.
Friday, June 6, 2014
Lolo Pass to Wahtum Lake and back on the PCT
I drove to the Lolo Pass Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) trailhead on Wednesday morning and started hiking north at 9 AM. The weather was like porridge for Goldilocks (not too hot; not too cold). The trail started out well maintained. A beautiful wilderness experience...except for the bright yellow Bull Run Watershed warning signs telling you to remain on the trail or pay a $5000 fine and go to jail for 6 months. Bull Run is the water source for Portland, Oregon and only two trails allow passage; the PCT and a side trail to Huckleberry Mountain / Lost Lake. After about 5 miles, the trail headed up into the snow. I had to traverse over 100 patches of snow. Some were pretty nasty with a greater than 45-degree slope of snow covering the trail and extending over 100 feet below the trail. Ice Axe and Crampons would have been nice. I proceeded slowly and the snow was soft enough to level a nice path for each step. I made it to Wahtum Lake in 7 hours (about 2.25 miles per hour). I saw three people on the trail; a couple of women who were taking a break with their solar panels charging their electronics, and a guy just starting a southbound (SOBO) thru-hike of the Oregon section of the PCT. I camped at the west end of Wahtum Lake again. Some good samaritan(s) cleaned up the site from the last time I camped there. I saw a few more people at Wahtum Lake, but had the campsite to myself again. I slept in my bug bivy with no tarp overhead. Good view of the stars. During the night, a rodent decided my camping gear looked delicious and I could hear him/her gnawing at it. I would yell, which worked for 30 minutes or so. Eventually yelling didn't work, so I had to turn on my light. Around 3 AM, I spread out my gear so it wasn't in a big pile and this seemed to work, so I got a couple of hours of sleep.
Thursday, I got up at 5:30 AM, did the morning chores (remove and wash my sleep apnea oral appliance, eat my delicious pop tart breakfast, brush teeth, pack, etc.) and I started hiking at 6:30 AM. I decided to take the road to Indian Springs campground instead of the trail. The road branched and I (of course) followed the wrong one. But I didn't go too far out of the way; just climbed a little more than I needed to. The "three of us" soon found the trail again (me, my printed maps, my "Halfmile PCT" iPhone app). The hike back was uneventful. Thanks to the SOBO hikers ahead of me, there were some nice foot platforms to follow over the snow and I made it back in under 7 hours.
I got to my car just before 1:30 PM and headed back towards Portland to beat rush hour traffic. I stopped at a McDonalds drive-thru to get a chicken sandwich meal. Back on Highway 26 in Gresham, I was about two car lengths from an intersection when a lady turned right in front of me. I had to squeal the brakes and my food slid off my lap onto the floor. I think I said "golly gee that's upsetting" or something similar. After getting home, I did my unpacking first before I ran out of energy. Then I heated up some leftovers. I was pretty hungry by this point. As I ate my first bite, two people from Environment Oregon knocked at the door. I said I was sorry, I couldn't talk to them at the moment as I was eating dinner. As they continued to prattle on, I came to the conclusion that they were more concerned with my money than with me so I shut the door on them. But I didn't release the pit bull, so maybe I'm not such a bad person after all. I'm not sure where they fell on Maslow's hierarchy of needs but I'm pretty sure my physiological need for food was my focus at the moment.
All in all, a great two-day trip. I feel like I'm getting in better shape and will be prepared for my 165-mile Lake Tahoe trip coming up in September. I have lost 25 pounds since January.
Thursday, I got up at 5:30 AM, did the morning chores (remove and wash my sleep apnea oral appliance, eat my delicious pop tart breakfast, brush teeth, pack, etc.) and I started hiking at 6:30 AM. I decided to take the road to Indian Springs campground instead of the trail. The road branched and I (of course) followed the wrong one. But I didn't go too far out of the way; just climbed a little more than I needed to. The "three of us" soon found the trail again (me, my printed maps, my "Halfmile PCT" iPhone app). The hike back was uneventful. Thanks to the SOBO hikers ahead of me, there were some nice foot platforms to follow over the snow and I made it back in under 7 hours.
I got to my car just before 1:30 PM and headed back towards Portland to beat rush hour traffic. I stopped at a McDonalds drive-thru to get a chicken sandwich meal. Back on Highway 26 in Gresham, I was about two car lengths from an intersection when a lady turned right in front of me. I had to squeal the brakes and my food slid off my lap onto the floor. I think I said "golly gee that's upsetting" or something similar. After getting home, I did my unpacking first before I ran out of energy. Then I heated up some leftovers. I was pretty hungry by this point. As I ate my first bite, two people from Environment Oregon knocked at the door. I said I was sorry, I couldn't talk to them at the moment as I was eating dinner. As they continued to prattle on, I came to the conclusion that they were more concerned with my money than with me so I shut the door on them. But I didn't release the pit bull, so maybe I'm not such a bad person after all. I'm not sure where they fell on Maslow's hierarchy of needs but I'm pretty sure my physiological need for food was my focus at the moment.
All in all, a great two-day trip. I feel like I'm getting in better shape and will be prepared for my 165-mile Lake Tahoe trip coming up in September. I have lost 25 pounds since January.
Mount Hood from Lolo Pass
The Trillium are in bloom
Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams
Much of the trail was flat and well maintained. Thanks Trail Workers!!!
Friday, May 16, 2014
Wahtum Lake loop hike
On Thursday morning I hit the trail at 7:30 AM. I took the Chinidere trail shortcut to the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and headed North back to Cascade Locks. Descending from Benson Plateau (4000 feet) to Cascade Locks (240 feet) was agony. About 85 degrees and no wind. I stocked up on water at teakettle springs and rolled the dice and did not treat it.
A good trip. I did not see another human being for over 24 hours. When is the last time that happened to you?
Tuesday, April 8, 2014
Saturday, April 5, 2014 (21 miles)
I parked at Bridge of the Gods Trail Head in Cascade Locks. Hiked on Gorge Trail #400 to Eagle Creek Trail Head (about two miles). Alternatively, you can walk the bike path. Proceeded up Eagle Creek to my previous stopping point - Tunnel Falls. Kept going on the "Vertigo Mile" past Twister Falls, then took the Wahtum Lake trail. Got within a half mile of Wahtum Lake and hit snow. I was only about a third of a mile from intersecting the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). My intent was to camp at Wahtum Lake and then on Sunday, take the PCT back to Cascade Locks and my car. Stopped in an open spot to send a Delorme InReach satellite text message to my wife, telling her my change of plans. Then I retreated back down Wahtum Lake trail about 5 miles until I found a suitable camp site. It started raining hard right after setting up my tarp, so I got my wet clothes off, crawled into my sleeping bag and had a cold dinner of trail mix. About midnight, I woke up and could feel that the foot of my sleeping bag was getting really wet. A miniature lake was forming at my feet due to a slight low point on the ground. I propped up my foam sleeping pad with water bottles and shoes, placed the foot of my bag on top of my bear can, and went back to "sleep". It stopped raining around 3am and eventually the water soaked into the ground so I could get a couple hours of sleep.
Sunday, April 6, 2014 (9 miles)
I broke camp and hit the trail around 8am. Met a couple of friends from work above High Bridge and the three of us hiked back down together. It was great meeting up with them and really made my day. They were kind enough to give me a ride back to my car from the Eagle Creek Trail Head.
Monday, April 7, 2014 (0 miles)
A nice, sunny day back in Beaverton. I was able to dry out all my stuff on the back deck and enjoy a well deserved beer.
Lessons learned:
I parked at Bridge of the Gods Trail Head in Cascade Locks. Hiked on Gorge Trail #400 to Eagle Creek Trail Head (about two miles). Alternatively, you can walk the bike path. Proceeded up Eagle Creek to my previous stopping point - Tunnel Falls. Kept going on the "Vertigo Mile" past Twister Falls, then took the Wahtum Lake trail. Got within a half mile of Wahtum Lake and hit snow. I was only about a third of a mile from intersecting the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). My intent was to camp at Wahtum Lake and then on Sunday, take the PCT back to Cascade Locks and my car. Stopped in an open spot to send a Delorme InReach satellite text message to my wife, telling her my change of plans. Then I retreated back down Wahtum Lake trail about 5 miles until I found a suitable camp site. It started raining hard right after setting up my tarp, so I got my wet clothes off, crawled into my sleeping bag and had a cold dinner of trail mix. About midnight, I woke up and could feel that the foot of my sleeping bag was getting really wet. A miniature lake was forming at my feet due to a slight low point on the ground. I propped up my foam sleeping pad with water bottles and shoes, placed the foot of my bag on top of my bear can, and went back to "sleep". It stopped raining around 3am and eventually the water soaked into the ground so I could get a couple hours of sleep.
Sunday, April 6, 2014 (9 miles)
I broke camp and hit the trail around 8am. Met a couple of friends from work above High Bridge and the three of us hiked back down together. It was great meeting up with them and really made my day. They were kind enough to give me a ride back to my car from the Eagle Creek Trail Head.
Monday, April 7, 2014 (0 miles)
A nice, sunny day back in Beaverton. I was able to dry out all my stuff on the back deck and enjoy a well deserved beer.
Lessons learned:
- pick tarp location carefully; avoid low points with no drainage
- pay attention to every step you take (I slipped and fell once on the vertigo mile)
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Eagle Creek Trail 440 to Tunnel Falls
6 miles out and 6 miles back. It took me five hours. A beautiful trail along very steep cliffs. If you are afraid of heights this is not the trail for you. Tunnel Falls is spectacular and well worth the hike. This is a very popular trail and I passed many people on the way back.
Monday, February 24, 2014
Oregon Coast Trail - Ft. Steven's State Park to Ecola State Park and back
Saturday, February 22, 2014 (20 miles)
I did not do the first 4 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail. I started south on the beach from the wreck of the Peter Iredale. I parked my car at Fort Stevens State Park and walked south to the Ecola State Park Hiker's Camp. I actually camped a bit short of the Adirondac shelters since there were a couple of people with dogs at the camp. The first 16 miles is beach and street walking. The last 4 miles is on the Tillamook Head trail which rises from near sea level to 920 feet. There are some spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.
Sunday, February 23, 2014 (8 miles)
I woke up early and hit the trail at 5:45 AM and used my headlamp. Saw a very tame deer just before getting off the trail and back to Seaside. It was only about 30 feet from me and didn't even stop feeding when I said "Good Morning, Deer". I hiked to Gearhart and decided to cut the hike short and call a cab. I was worried about getting back to my car before they locked up the gated compound it was parked in. Good weather both days. Low 50s and no rain. Got down to around freezing at night, but I was cozy under my tarp in my Marmot Helium sleeping bag.
Some logistics:
Email park.info@state.or.us and let them know your plans. They will forward you to the right park office.
At Fort Stevens State Park, turn left at the main stop sign and then take your first left into the gated compound.
From the Peter Iredale wreck, there are 12 miles of beach walking with no services, so plan water and restroom breaks accordingly.
Bathroom and water facilities:
I did not do the first 4 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail. I started south on the beach from the wreck of the Peter Iredale. I parked my car at Fort Stevens State Park and walked south to the Ecola State Park Hiker's Camp. I actually camped a bit short of the Adirondac shelters since there were a couple of people with dogs at the camp. The first 16 miles is beach and street walking. The last 4 miles is on the Tillamook Head trail which rises from near sea level to 920 feet. There are some spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.
Sunday, February 23, 2014 (8 miles)
I woke up early and hit the trail at 5:45 AM and used my headlamp. Saw a very tame deer just before getting off the trail and back to Seaside. It was only about 30 feet from me and didn't even stop feeding when I said "Good Morning, Deer". I hiked to Gearhart and decided to cut the hike short and call a cab. I was worried about getting back to my car before they locked up the gated compound it was parked in. Good weather both days. Low 50s and no rain. Got down to around freezing at night, but I was cozy under my tarp in my Marmot Helium sleeping bag.
Some logistics:
Email park.info@state.or.us and let them know your plans. They will forward you to the right park office.
At Fort Stevens State Park, turn left at the main stop sign and then take your first left into the gated compound.
From the Peter Iredale wreck, there are 12 miles of beach walking with no services, so plan water and restroom breaks accordingly.
Bathroom and water facilities:
- Fort Steven's State Park
- Seaside 12th Avenue Beach Access (Seaside restrooms are on city water)
- Seaside Broadway Beach Access
- Seaside Sunset Blvd "surfer's" restroom (just before climbing the hill)
If you need to cut your hike short:
- Seaside cab - 503-738-5252
Here is the map: http://www.oregon.gov/oprd/PARKS/docs/OCT_a.pdf
Monday, January 27, 2014
Columbia River Gorge Hike
Yesterday I hiked the Wahkeenah - Angel's Rest loop (8 miles). I wore a full 35 pound pack - 25 lb base weight and 10 lb water (4 liters).
I parked at the Wahkeenah Falls trailhead and walked the highway to the Angel's Rest trailhead. The trail was pretty crowded up to Angel's Rest but I was on my own above there. Nice flat wooded section up on the ridge. Crowded again coming down through Wahkeenah canyon.
It was cold and very windy and the trail was icy in spots.
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